India - Palitana - Jain temples

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India - Palitana - Jain temples

Last revised: 24 December 2003

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Palitana lies at the foot of the Shatrunjaya Hill, with the Shatrunjaya River flowing to its south. The sacred hill rises in a crescendo of magnificent temples - 863 in all that soar in marble splendor to the top of the hill each rivaling the other for beauty and magnificence, presenting an awe-inspiring spectacle to devotees and visitors. . The temples were built over an impressive span of 900 years with each generation of pilgrims making its contribution to the shrines of Shatrunjaya. The 600-meter climb to Shatrunjaya is usually made on foot. Doolies or lift-chairs are also available for the ascent.

Doolies Palitana India
Girls resting on steps Palitana India
Temple façade Palitana India

Climbing to summit Palitana India
Doolies & carriers Palitana India
Doolie carriers Palitana India

This was one of those wonderful days that can’t be planned, just experienced. We got dropped off at the base of the mountain just before dawn. Since this was still the end of Divali week, thousands of pilgrims and tourists were also ready for the ascent. Doolie carriers caught our scent immediately, and converged to offer to carry us to the top. We told them no. We walked thru the bazaar and started up the stairs, the 4 of us as a nucleus with dooliewallahs orbiting, waiting for one of us to peel away. The first temple was packed with worshippers and their chants, with music thrummed out powerfully. Then started the long steady plod upwards – 600 m; the steps were labeled with the elevation and distance traveled, but I didn’t point that out to the others till after we’d reached the top. The entire way, distractions abounded – lots of men and women carrying loads to the top – firewood, food, water. Families walking along, everyone extremely friendly and curious, and we got to know many people as we met, talked, rested, then separated, only yo meet farther up the hill and offer further encouragement. It was a beautiful morning, colors getting crisper as we climbed and it warmed up. We easily consumed the liters of water and snacks we were carrying

Icon Palitana India
Temple rooftops Palitana India
Temple rooftops Palitana India

Temple rooftops Palitana India
Temple rooftops Palitana India

Got to the main gate about 10:30 We found fresh water being distributed from large urns. It was labeled as distilled, which seemed unlikely, but we’d already been drinking local water when domestic tourists did, so we figured it was better than dehydration. Took awhile to register – foreigners had each to sign a book, and then we had to find the special office that sold camera chits to let us take pictures. We could easily have spent hours wandering about, but ended up just being there about one hour. Each temple h ad a guardian or two whose main purpose seemed to be to check camera permits and collect baksheesh for doing so. One more enterprising guy gave us a description of some of the other things we could see, and then led us through several beautifully carved temples. None were as large as the Abu or Ranakpur temples, but the cumulative effect of all these dedications trumped those others. Our guide took us up onto the roof of one of the main temples by way of a airy stairway, with high narrow steps and no railings. The view was stunning in all directions. He’d have taken us around for the rest of the day, but we realized we still had a long drive, so reluctantly began our descent.
Only 2 paths ascend the mountain, and we took the one that came out nearby our hotel, which was steeper. Turned out, it was relentless – few breaks in the stairways, unlike the other way which had several long flat spots. If we’d gone that way we’d also have missed most of the company, since many fewer people used this back way. About half way down, we were passed by a herd of donkeys, still in their bright magenta Divali paint, and I took a picture of them passing Audrey & Jeanne. The herder, at the rear of the small herd, immediately began berating me loudly for taking the picture, but when she got closer, she agreed to pose with her array of silver jewelry, in return for 10R. Mr. Singh was waiting for us at a tea house and we quickly returned to the hotel.
Lunch on return, after shower – alu gobi, tomato soup, egg curry [recipe link]

Temple sculpture Palitana India
Panorama Palitana India
Panorama Palitana India

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